A kitten at home: first weeks, litter tray, play, safety
Kittens settle in faster than puppies, which is exactly why the first weeks get less attention — and the costliest mistake here costs a kitten its life.
Updated: 16 August 2026
Kittens look more independent than puppies, and for that reason they often get less attention. In fact the first weeks equally determine what kind of cat you end up with — how sociable, whether it fears hands, whether it shreds the furniture.
First of all: safety
Important
Windows. This is the leading cause of injury and death in city kittens. Insect mesh does not hold a cat's weight and creates a false sense of safety — you need metal screens. Tilt-and-turn windows left ajar are dangerous too: a kitten gets stuck in the narrow part of the gap and is injured.
- Washing machine, oven, dishwasher — check before switching on. Kittens climb into warm dark places.
- Thread, elastic bands, tinsel, plastic film. A swallowed thread often means surgery.
- Cables into trunking, small objects off the floor.
- Plants. Lilies are lethal to cats; dieffenbachia, monstera, azalea and peace lily are also toxic.
- Household chemicals and medicines — behind closed doors.
- A balcony without netting is no place for a kitten, even "supervised".
The litter tray: usually the easy part
Kittens learn fast, because burying is an instinct rather than a skill. Your job is mainly not to get in the way.
- A tray with a low rim so the kitten can climb in easily.
- Put it somewhere quiet but not far away — a kitten will not make it across the whole flat.
- For the first days limit the space to one room: the smaller the territory, the lower the chance of accidents.
- Unscented, fine litter. Scented litter often puts kittens off.
- After sleeping and after eating, carry the kitten to the tray — that is how the habit forms.
- Accidents get cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner and no punishment. Punishment creates stress, and stress creates more accidents.
A scratching post from day one
Scratching is not naughtiness but a physical need: the cat sheds the outer claw layer and leaves a mark. You cannot forbid it, only redirect it.
- Put the post where the kitten already scratches, not where it suits you.
- Two different ones: vertical and horizontal — cats have different preferences.
- The vertical one must be taller than the kitten stretched full length, and stable. A wobbly post goes unused.
- Reinforce it: praise and treat when it scratches in the right place.
Important
Declawing is amputation of the toe bones, not a manicure. It maims the cat, changes its gait, causes chronic pain and frequently leads to aggression and litter tray problems. It is banned in many countries. Use scratching posts and regular trimming of the claw tips instead.
Play: the one key rule
Never play with a kitten using your hands. It looks charming while it weighs 800 grams and becomes a problem at five kilos: the cat has learned that a hand is prey, and unlearning that is far harder than teaching it correctly from the start.
- Use a wand toy, a mouse on a string, a paper ball — something between your hand and the cat.
- Play should end in a catch. Hunting with no catchable prey builds frustration — which is why laser pointers are best avoided, or at least finished with a real toy to pounce on.
- Two or three short 10-minute sessions a day. Evening is best — it reduces night-time activity.
- If the kitten bites your hand, play stops instantly: stand up and turn away for 20 seconds.
Feeding
Kittens need food formulated for kittens: it has a different balance of protein, calcium and calories. Feed 4–5 small meals a day. Cow's milk must not be given — it causes upset; if a milk replacer is needed it must be one made for cats.
One kitten or two
If you work long hours, two kittens are often easier than one. They wear each other out playing, wreck the flat less, learn bite inhibition better and barely suffer from loneliness. This is the rare case where "twice as many" means "fewer problems".
At the vet
The first check-up goes in the first week at home, but not on day one. The vaccination schedule, parasite treatments and the right age for neutering are decided by the vet. Do not go by forum advice: the timing depends on the age, weight and condition of the individual kitten.
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